Meeting Mrs Ples

I had another unique adventure with Mark Tennant the other day (www.animalsartsandancestors.com). I went to meet the original Mrs Ples. Her remarkably intact skull now resides in a velvet cased box inside the Transvaal Museum. What a wonderful visit if a rather large step back in time!

But let’s go back a sec…who’s Mrs Ples and what’s the big deal?

At the helm of early evolutionary studies in South Africa were the likes of passionate palaeoanthropologists such as Professor Raymond Dart and Dr Robert Broom. Dart’s contentious publications were the first to propose that there was in fact a hereditary link between the ape and human. This supposition was strongly supported by Broom’s discovery of a new hominin fossil in the Sterkfontein Caves in the form of Mrs Ples - the media shortening for Plesianthropus africanus (later changed to Austrolopithecus africanus). The discovery of Mrs Ples ultimately opened the world up to the realisation that not all early hominids are direct ancestors of modern man. These men’s work was foundational in the world recognising that Gauteng’s Cradle of Humankind was paramount in the understanding of human ancestry having produced thousands of hominin fragments, hundreds of thousands of animal fossil fragments and ten thousand stone tools that cover 3 major stone-cultures. Sterkfontein is the longest ongoing excavation in the world having been dug continuously for three decades and intermittently for the previous three.

Mark took me to The Cradle a while back and it blew my mind.

The part of Gauteng that has come to be known as the Cradle of Humankind is a world-renowned heritage site due to the fact that 35% of the world’s hominin fossils have been discovered here in 12 individual sites and is characterised by 2.8 billion year old rocks. The granite, some of the most ancient rock on the planet, protects an expansive network of underground caverns amongst softer dolomite and these preserve the clues of a 3.5 million year old story.

The Cradle’s undulating grasslands with their moist valleys and wooded slopes have been ideal for hominin habitation for millennia (the period when most human evolution occurred is called the plio-pleistocene) in spite of interruptions such as climate variations and the presence of inland seas. It seems the original human-like apes at 1.3m tall first roamed here about 3 million years ago. They lived in small social groups and dodged sabre-toothed cats and prehistoric hunting hyenas. Australopithecus africanus is thought to have been the original ancestor of the Homo genus which appeared when a series of hot and cold cycles created a window for speciation about 2 million years ago.

Human evolution is complicated because it branches and is not as linear as originally thought. It seems some of the original Australopithecus africana gene line took on the traits of a more robust ape-man with a flatter face and larger teeth while another evolved into Homo habilis which had a larger brain and more carnivorous diet (and thus different lifestyle skills in terms of hunting rather than gathering) than the Australopithecines.

The clues tell us that by 1.5 million years ago Homo erectus was beginning to displace H.habilis probably due to his new found ability to tame fire for warmth and protection, flames being transported from natural sources like lightning-induced veld fires. Fireplaces in the Forum Homini rooms remind guests of this critical turning point in our evolution. Remarkably, this same tool harnessed for simple tasks such as cooking food, would eventually take mankind to the moon! From this point, humans developed quickly.

The Homo genus had a mental capacity and social organization much more advanced than his predecessors and it appears dispersed northwards to colonise Asia and then Europe. Those that remained in southern Africa developed into archaic Homo sapiens 800-200 thousand years ago. These individuals excelled in communication and language began to develop as well as expression through art and the crafting of jewellery, weapons and more advanced tools. Many controversies exist around the evolution of man and scientists have limited (not to mention petrified) evidence to work with to prove or disprove their theories.

Standing in the cool, dark space under the earth is quite unnerving. Not because its particularly claustrophobic but rather because standing there is like being inside a sacred grave site. Some of the earliest forms of life, prehistoric blue-green algae’s (known as stromatolites) have been found here. Nature’s embellished, arching ceiling and the tranquil underground lake are tomb-adornments fit for kings. The most intact australopithecine ever found is still being meticulously extracted from the rock in this cave. ‘Little Foot’s’ foot bones were found in a bag containing discarded lime-mining debris blasted some 65 years previously and painstakingly matched to the rest of the skeleton where it had come to rest, his skull resting on an outstretched arm, after falling down a vertical shaft 4 million years previously.

Game Ranger in your Backpack

Its finally here after two years of blood and sweat! "Game Ranger" is an all-in-one interpretative guide to the wildlife of the Lowveld. Check out the link to learn more and to order your copy! Its a must have for every naturalist and nature lover!

http://briza.co.za/bookstore/product_info.php?products_id=283&osCsid=415eb4044e28f3544baa043ed5ad4b87

Babe at the Beach

I have enjoyed an unexpected little holiday at the sea recently. Having finished the training course in Tsavo, things were not finalised as to ‘where to next’ so I found myself hanging out on the most gorgeous beach south of Mombasa called Tiwi Beach at a rustic little resort called Maweni Cottages. Its like a mini Caribbean. Being on the equator, the water is so warm in the ocean that sometimes it doesn't really refresh you until you get out and allow the breeze to blow on you. It’s quite hot and humid on the coast but having a private beach is what it’s all about and everytime one feels soggy, off you trot for a dip in the turquoise ocean. Its heaven!

There is a shallow reef all the way along this stretch of coast so at high tide the waves aren't very big against the sand (they break further out where the reef starts) and it’s like swimming in a peaceful rock pool. When the tide is low one can pick through the reef on foot (I say pick coz there are tonnes of urchins) and explore the pools full of little rock-pool fishies (not an area of speciality!) and bristle stars and sea cucumbers and and and.... If you head north up the beach, there is a place the locals call 'starfish village' because there are hundreds of multi-coloured starfish that become beached at low tide. I went when the tide was coming in with a mask and swam out with a fisherman to see them. It was incredible. We also saw living corals with their polyps and clams and an anemone complete with clownfish 'Nemo'! I was completely exhausted after the swim because we had to go far out and you can hardly stand for the urchins! Good exercise after not doing much for a few weeks....plus the hike down the sand back to my cottage!

If you go south down the beach, one heads towards Diani Beach...a more renowned coastal destination but more built up. I went at low tide again, along the reef and the local ‘askari’ (guard) took me to a place they call the map of Africa (its prudent to take an 'askari' for safety when exploring further a field). It’s a deep pool in the reef that holds water when the tide is out shaped like the continent and complete with Madagascar pool! Next pool up is Australia which is bigger and has two caves over it but looks nothing like Australia! Go figure. Inside the caves (which are open in places to the sky and you can see the vegetation above you and the light plays on the walls...lovely) there is a colony of bats that roost on the highest parts of the walls coz when the tide comes in that’s the only place they can hide from it. The water over the years has shaped small pot holes in the ceiling and each little bat roosts in its own 'egg-cup'! They chatter while you explore and it’s like a scene from a story book!

The gardens at Maweni are beautiful. Everything is quite tropical and so there is greenery and flowers galore and the smell of frangipani wherever you walk. There was a team of gardeners at work in the gardens when I arrived (poor guys working in the heat!) and they only just had seemed to have made headway a week down the line due to the extent of the beds! Palm trees line the banks (the camp is raised above rocky cliffs) and there are a good few Baobabs too. There's a restaurant and a pool but I prefer the self catering option and the sea!

One can get fresh fish caught that morning from the fishermen. There is a small thatched 'banda' - shelter - near the edge of the living area and the locals are allowed to come up and sell their wares. It’s really cool that this is a private beach so you don't get harassed by locals to buy things all the time like in central Mombasa. I did however get offered seashells for purchase by a fisherman while I was swimming in the sea! Anyway, the locals sell everything you could wish for at the sea....fresh fish (filleted for you on request thank goodness), lobster, crab, prawns, calamari, oysters etc. And you see them collecting it so you know it’s fresh (and they don’t harvest in excess it appears, just what is needed which it super). Then there are some veggie sellers with tomatos, ginger, garlic, fruits and potatoes so the basics are covered and one doesn't ever need to go to town really (I picked up milk and the like on the way in as well as an emergency bikini! Who'd have thought!). The coconut milk mandasi's (like a sugarless doughnut) freshly baked are my best.

The first 3 nights I was at the beach were the best. Caroline, a Dutch girl who did the Ecotraining course I just instructed (www.ecotraining.co.za), had a few days to waste before she headed home. The 2 of us teamed up to find a place to stay and then enjoyed such a lovely holiday together - fresh food (she's a great cook!), pedicures and massages from Smugglers Rest, the on-beach local salon!, long swims and walks and lots of laughs. We were like two kids at Christmas. She swears she'll be back from Amsterdam ASAP again with everyone she knows...she's fallen in love with Africa!

I adopted 2 stray cats. The first showed up while Caroline was still with me and we couldn't resist her. She's pregnant and obviously hungry so each meal we'd dish her some fish or calamari or tuna...the life of a beach cat. She makes the most bizarre squeaking mews and is too sweet. She's little, black and white with a pink nose and green eyes. This morning 'Grizabella the Glamour Cat' (I saw cats when I was home last!) had brought a tabby friend along for milk! It’s nice to have the company. Grizabella has got to curling up on the chair beside me in the evenings. It took a few days for her to get so familiar. The other climbed onto my lap immediately begging for attention...a bit more forward!

My Kenyan experience has been a brilliant adventure all round but I am looking forward to heading home to family for Christmas after some more training in the Mara (back to Koiyaki Guiding School www.koiyaki.com soon). I have a new little dress I want to wear and a great tan to show off when I get back!

Rukinga – Lifeline between East and West

Tsavo country is vast, spectacular and ochre-red. The fine red dust is its trademark - and too the red elephants and buffalo that result from it.

Rukinga Ranch is 30000ha of cattle ranch turned conservation thanks to efforts of Wildlife Works, a company that recognised that the region in which Tsavo lies isn’t going to get any wealthier from doing nothing for the land. The cows get denser each year as does the population and so the only real solution is to put the land to good use. When the majority of the space in the region is already taken up by the East and West Tsavo Parks that are already a tourist attraction thanks to history and movies like ‘Ghosts in the Darkness’, it makes sense to ensure the wildlife perpetuates. To do this takes cooperation from the community and a channel that links them together. Rukinga is such a place…a refuge for migratory animals passing through the desolate dry landscape and a paradise to the observer.

The elephants jostle and vocalise through the night to stake a claim to the small waterhole they have created from lifting the water pipe outside camp. The park staff are exasperated at having to fix the pipe for the umteenth time but I love the fact that all through the night I can hear the ellies from my bed and every morning first thing, there they are right on the doorstep vying with buffalo bulls for access to the muddy bath. Hundreds of ring-necked doves alight around the great grumpy pachyderms like grey snow falling on the red earth, the sunlight glinting off their white retrices. One needn’t venture far at all for a wildlife spectacle so incredible, it’s hard to believe it happens again and again each morning.

But after some elephant indulgence, the great expanses beyond the camp vicinity beckon and inevitably the temptation grips to look for some of the other remarkable species that inhabit these parts. There are gerenuks that never cease to elicit giggles as they stand up primate-like on their hind legs to access leaves generally out of reach of such small antelope. Their front hooves dangle out gracefully in front of their sleek bodies as they nibble and chew for seemingly ages on two pins. Fringe-earred oryx are rarer but a glimpse of their impressive stature with lance-like horns is always a treat. As is an encounter with the endangered Grevy’s zebra. The population was introduced to the area in an effort to bolster the numbers. While the oryx’s ears appear frayed and unkempt, the Grevy’s has ears that look like they used to belong to Mickey Mouse! Oversized and comical these perfectly compliment a unique stripe pattern amongst zebra that resembles a pin-stripe suit left open over the belly to reveal a white undershirt.

Aardwolf and striped hyena, caracal, serval and bat-earred fox are some of the other treats and not always that rare a sight either. But my best are the Kirk’s dikdik. These miniature antelopes are the fame of the area. Paired off in their small but excusive territories, it’s a few hundred meters only between sightings. Their large eyes are even more emphasized by the dark preorbital glands that they use to paint tarry secretions onto beacons as boundary markers. The little ungulates also make remarkably large middens to identify their ranges but as a species, being so successful warrants a little showing off I suppose. Their slender noses are apparently a clever trick they have to survive in such harsh climates, wriggling these to cause evaporate cooling.

I’ve heard a story or two of late about how the dikdik got its name but as convincing as these were, the fiction was derived from a very capable story-telling Irishman with a vivid imagination and an illuminating smile. Jimmy was one member of the first group of students to participate in Ecotraining’s pilot Kenyan 28-day field guide training course on Rukinga (www.ecotraining.co.za) and was matched in his charismatic-ness by each of the others participating. Anton, the Russian-Australian, had a ceaseless stream of naturalist questions that couldn’t be quenched (even between Ashleigh’s random hic-ups) – even at 2am on a nocturnal drive, they just kept coming! But that kind of interest is exactly what is required in an environment where there are so many new things to learn and areas to explore…not least of which was Mount Kasigau, the towering landmark that presides over the Rukinga landscape. So up we went…

The Austrian-Spanish cousins, Sophie and Cecile, and I had decided we would just accompany the over-energetic Jimmy, Anton and Wil part of the way up the 1640m peak. Climbing a mountain is about enjoying the scenery on the way up and not just anticipating the view from the top. Dry, rocky Commiphora bush changed into tall, shaded dry forest which metamorphosed into a fantasy-land of looming trees, dancing leaves, giant-sized buttrices and moss-covered logs. Trenches from the First World War distracted us from the hike at one point and then the appeal of an even lovelier wet-forest further up where purple orchids dotted the tree trunks, Taita white-eyes flitted and one had to be careful to step steadily on the slippery mud. The temperate was cool and lovely, a remarkable micro-climate compared to the heat below. Then the final climb was in sight and the girls were still on board and more determined than ever to reach the top having come so far inadvertently! The boys must’ve been as impressed with us as we were with ourselves as they quite willingly shared their sandwiches with us! We had abandoned ours in the vehicle below not thinking we’d need them! Getting down proved a comedy of slippery errors but 7 hours after it all began and we were back on level ground marvelling at the feat!

October has seen the start of the very welcome rains. ‘Karibu sana’ as they say in Kiswahili… ‘most welcome’! The entire landscape has been transformed into an emerald wonderland and although the elephants have dispersed and are no longer lingering on the camp doorstep, it’s a relief to know there’s plenty of water for them to drink. The buffalo can relax a bit too.

Or maybe not since the lion activity on Rukinga has been on the rise. Two very good-looking young males (albeit maneless) made their appearance the other morning roaring proudly to announce their arrival. After feasting on a lesser kudu, the companions settled under a leafy Commiphora to while away the hours providing super viewing for the second intake of EcoTrainers this year. The maneless lions of Tsavo are renowned although scientists still seem to be a little confused as to why they don’t grow manes. The probability is that the heat typical of the area would sap them of vital energy if they had impressive furry manes but interestingly, increased testosterone that causes baldness in human males, could be another reason. Since Tsavo lions tend to hold tenure over a territory on their own unlike the coalitions of other savanna areas, they’d need a whole lot of hormone driving them to be aggressive enough to chase off contenders and hair-loss may result! The ladies don’t seem to mind…

The rain has brought the migrants and Indi or ‘Indiana Jones’ as we affectionately call her – a local Kenyan already in the safari industry but here to learn more - is thrilled! Every referee-whistle of a Eurasian bee-eater or ‘coo-coo’ of the African cuckoo elicits gasps of delight from her. Through the many enjoyable hours of birding that we’ve done on both Rukinga and in Tsavo East (clocking up 123 species in 3 and a half weeks), she has also elicited gasps of delight from the rest of us with her ceaseless supply of snacks! In her words: ‘yum’!

Johnson is the laugh-a-minute Kenyan chap who always has a bright smile and a witty comment. He keeps Caroline on her toes questioning her about everything he spots. Caroline is our Dutch ‘singing’ friend – she has a tune for every occasion! She’s on an adventure away from rainy Holland to indulge in glorious Africa – lucky for us but maybe not for her, we’ve had a fair bit of rain during her stay! Steve and Petra complete the dynamic little group and although Steve is of Taita origin, he happily chats away to Petra in her mother tongue German providing great amusement to the rest of us.

Such is the case in any EcoTraining Kenyan field guide experience…a mix of diverse culture, personality, landscapes and wildlife. Wouldn’t miss it for the world!

Moments in Rukinga (Tsavo, Kenya)

The magic of Tsavo

At home amongst bushbabies

When I’m at home (which is not too often), I live in a bushbaby sanctuary which remarkably is located in the middle of the city. The developers of this townhouse complex rose to the challenge of incorporating wildlife into city living. Having identified the site, it was discovered that a naturally occurring population of lesser bushbabies (Galago maholi) were already in residence there. Instead of merely flattening the area for construction, the bushbabies were taken into ‘protective custody’ for the duration of building and sections of the natural bush preserved for their release back into their habitat once construction was complete. Subsequently gardens were planted comprising only indigenous vegetation including transplanted trees of the variety crucial for the survival of the VIP residents and these are connected via the residents’ gardens by ropes along which the small primates scamper like tight-rope walkers each evening on their way to feed.

Bushbabies are amazingly adapted for their nocturnal, arboreal lifestyles. They have enormous eyes with expanding pupils that allow for the collection of light in poor light conditions. Their eyes are so large that they are immovable in their sockets and to compensate bushbabies can rotate their heads 180 degrees (much like a bird) to look over their shoulders. They are able to bulge their eyeballs to gain focus of an object. There is a highly reflective layer called the tapetum lucidum in the back of the eye which shines reddish in torchlight. This also facilitates night time vision. Remarkably for nocturnal creatures, bushbabies have a high percentage of colour cone cells on the retina.

Bushbabies have long whiskers (vibrissae) near the eyes to help them detect nearby objects and so protect the eyes while foraging in the dark. The membranous ears are also moveable and can be swivelled independently or simultaneously to pick up sounds or can be folded back out of harms way. Bushbabies’ hearing is so acute that they are able to locate insects on sound alone even snapping gnats out of the air with their hands. They in fact jump upon prey with their eyes closed so as not to get flailing insect parts in them.

The bushbabies brilliant leaping ability is effected by enlarged powerful hind legs and the long tail is used for power and balance. Primate-like hands and feet with nailed fingers and dexterous thumbs and toes assist with grip. The ends of the digits are padded with soft friction pads as well as the palm of the hands and the soles of the feet. These also help with grip and with capturing prey. They are able to land and grip with just their feet to keep their hands free for grasping prey. Bushbabies can leap horizontally up to 4m and vertically almost 2m. They can cover many meters (ten yards) in just a few seconds and more than a kilometre in a night with these impressive leaps and bounds. On the ground, bushbabies hop like miniature kangaroos. They have taken to doing this along the perimeter walls if roping across the garden becomes too mundane!

Chasing Cheetah

The Masai Mara is a predator haven few places can rival. The other night we headed off to walk the dogs on a private airstrip only to discover the area to be occupied by a female cheetah and her three tiny cubs. The clever mother had killed a rather large Grant ’s gazelle as supper for her brood and was blissfully oblivious to the fact that two eager hounds were now not going to get their evening walk.

We were delighted. The Olare Orok Conservancy is testament to the fact that there are solutions to Africa (and specifically Kenya’s) wildlife-human challenges. The area is community owned land that abuts the Masai Mara National Reserve and as a result of an official agreement between the community and various tourism partners, the Masai people have moved their settlements and livestock off the land to accommodate for unspoilt wildlife and eco-tourism and each family reaps a direct monthly monetary reward in return. Although land ownership is new (and somewhat foreign) for the Masai, this arrangement is suiting both parties well and the conservation of wildlife is the direct result and overtly obvious. The Olare Orok Conservancy is a paradise teaming with game. See www.oocmara.com to learn more.

Cheetah are predators specialized for speed. Clocking a record speed of 112 kmph, they are undoubtedly the fastest land mammals. Generally cheetah only accelerate up to between 75-100kmph at a full sprint and this lasts only a few hundred meters before they tire. In order to be successful, cheetah must get close enough to their quarry before embarking on the final sprint and are thus accomplished stalkers. They hunt in open areas making use of any available cover to stalk or they may simply walk directly towards the prey freezing immediately should the animal raise its head. Cheetah will try to get within 100m of their target before chasing it and they typically choose animals isolated on the skirt of a herd. Once the chase is underway, cheetah will pursue the animal for a short time only and its marvellous sprinting ability must enable it to gain on the prey almost immediately in order to trip it up with a paw and then secure a throat grip (thus depriving the prey of already depleted oxygen reserves) or else the cheetah will abandon the chase.

Once a kill is made, the cheetah is too exhausted to feed immediately and rests to catch its breath first. Prey is eaten where it falls or dragged to nearby shade if possible. Cheetah are picky eaters skimming meat neatly off the surface of a carcass. They may eat the heart and liver but the other innards are discarded. Bones and skin are also discarded due to their toughness and the cheetah’s diminished dentition and small jaws. They only scavenge occasionally and usually when displacing another predator is not required. Although cheetahs are relatively large in size, they generally do not attack large ungulates (hoofed animals) like wildebeest, zebra or buffalo. This is due to the fact that pulling these powerful animals down requires great strength which the cheetah lacks and in the process would risk injury to itself. Coalitions of males may cooperate to pull down larger prey but usually they target younger animals of these species.

Because cheetah are so over-specialized for speed they are almost totally defenseless against larger predators like lion, leopard, hyena and even vultures. As a result they are very susceptible to loosing kills to larger predators. To avoid the attentions of largely nocturnal carnivores, cheetah hunt during the day (diurnal predators). However, all predators are opportunistic and should they become aware of a kill, they will scavenge regardless of the time of day.

Cheetah specialization includes the following: They have long legs, long, flexible spines and wasp-like waists that in combination effect the long strides necessary to run quickly. The chest of the cheetah is deep set to accommodate its large lungs and heart, the internal powerhouse of the sprinter. The tail is long and acts as a rudder to counter-balance the cheetah when it has to change direction quickly. The head is small and stream-lined with only small ears. The teeth are smaller than other similar sized predators as these make the skull heavy. The reduced dentition also makes room for bigger nasal cavities to improve oxygen intake while in full sprint and to facilitate breathing when suffocating captured prey. Cheetah also have aerodynamic nostrils to maximize the flow of air over them while running. Although it is commonly thought that cheetah can’t ‘retract’ their claws at all, they do in fact have semi-retractable claws but these are unsheathed and so appear to be permanently protruding. This is an adaptation to assist with traction during chases. Pads on the underside of the feet are hard and often ridged which also assists with traction and improves their braking ability.

Cheetah are considered attentive mothers and cubs, which are born in tall grass or other cleverly hidden sites after just three months gestation, will regularly be moved to remain undetected and free of parasite infestations. The female painstakingly moves her cubs one at a time pinching them by the scruff of the neck which relaxes the nerves in that area and calms the cubs as they travel. The female brings meat back to her litter when they are still as young as five weeks old and in just three months the cubs are completely weaned and by eight months old will begin to hunt and make their own kills.

Young cheetah cubs (up to three months old) have a mantle of grey fur along the saddle of their backs which at quick glance resembles the colouration of the formidable honey badger. This mimicry is believed to deter larger predators from attacking the defenceless cubs as they are mistaken by predators for the more ferocious and generally avoided badger.

Enjoy every sunset

It doesn't matter how many I've seen, every sunset in the bush seems to take my breath away. When you're working and you have to travel across miles of wilderness just to get from A to B to do whatever it is you need to do, its such an incredible priveledge to be able to enjoy the wonders that nature throws at you along the way. It takes a couple of moments to stop and just appreciate it and breathe deep before carrying on with the task at hand. Thats why I do this job!

Luangwa - Battlefield of Hippo (Part 5)

Although they all but share a kingdom, both the crocodiles and the hippos are prepared to cross boundaries if something is at stake. For the crocodiles it’s a matter of food, for the hippos, possibly a matter of kinship or simply a lack of cognitive understanding of death. Amidst the feeding chaos, the hippo’s own brave the hordes of shiny teeth and flailing tempers for an investigation. Barging through the ranks of crocodiles, biting, pushing…what are the rules?

Recognition is sought by the hippo through licks and sniffs and nudges. The opening of the mouth indicates the use of the vemoronasal organ (commonly called the Organ of Jacobsen) which detects airborne steroid hormones. Typically this organ is used in determining whether an individual is ready to mate but is also used in the recognition of individuals. Maybe the salts on the sun-baked skin are simply a dry season delicacy for those who survive to harvest it? The teeth of a hippo are not exactly designed to nibble meat off spongy carcasses but licking is certainly possible. Hippos are after all the descendents of pigs.

On a particular channel, the Changwa, there are so many hippos packed together in the shallow remaining water of a fast shrinking river that a photograph reveals 100 heads but no light or space between them…it’s an epic tin of sardines! Changwa especially becomes overcrowded as the water level drops, a giant super-pod of thriving bodies and bad tempers. The rerouting of the river here, in its relentless quest to change course and create oxbows, provided an apparently super-attractive spot of hippo real estate. The Changwa Pod is no ordinary pod of hippos, it’s a super-pod and they offer us an exaggerated look at the dynamics of hippo life in the Valley. Fights break out…disease attacks…heat exhaustion takes its toll and hippos die creating a feast of notable proportions for the 100’s of crocs in the river that pile into these carcasses in numbers up to 200 at a time. The crux comes when the lions find such carcasses on the waters edge and fight off the crocs in a unique predator standoff for sole access to the meat.

For most of the year, these species seldom clash. Lions dispatch all decaying finds on land, crocodiles keep the Luangwa’s waters clean. Not so at this time of year. It’s a free for all and a wealth of hippo meat is too good a find for both competitors and sharing is just not an option. Armed with enormous teeth, lightning fast reflexes and claws of steel, the crocodile is a force to be reckoned with. But although the crocodile is obstinate and has craftiness on its side, there is a chink in its armour. Ten times the size of a lions’ jaws perhaps, the crocodile’s jaws do not provide an enormous amount of crushing power. Success is in the surprise of the attack and thereafter the ability to latch, drown and twist to feed off their prey. If matched against the lions and hippo, the crocs are up against high odds when out of their own domain.

Moving straight in, the lioness drags the carcass inch at a time up the beach, gaining ground for the lions before the carcass is lightened enough to be fleet-footed into the water. The water means victory for the crocodiles and here the lions do fear to tread! The crocodiles crawl up the beach after their escaping meal. The lions have speed and muscular power on land but the crocs have overpowering numbers on their side.

The Luangwa Valley’s top predators come face to face in the ultimate showdown. Lions and crocodiles clash over the final rights to this ultimate dry season prize – a prize defended valiantly by its own kind!

Luangwa: Battlefield of Hippo (Part 4)

Nature’s abundance of sausage trees provides for Luangwa’s abundance of hippo and in turn this supports another abundance…

In the Luangwa, a profusion of Nile crocodiles infests the waters, feeding stealthily on fish, thirsty antelope compelled into the murky shallows and even the occasional unsuspecting fisherman – crocodiles are notoriously indiscriminate in their choice of victim. But it is the giants of the river, the hippos that sustain and replenish the hordes through the dry season. With so many hippo conflicting, large mounds of decaying meat are a common sight along the river during the dry months. The heat rots the flesh quickly and it doesn’t take long for the crocodiles to sense the feast. So acute are their smelling senses for navigating through the murky water that no free meal goes unnoticed. Poking top-mounted beady eyes above the surface of the water, the sight of the mound of decaying flesh confirms what the nostrils already detect and draws the crocodiles in their hordes...in their hundreds.

Sometimes boundaries must be crossed to access the meat…the crocodiles must move onto the land. Disarmed of their usual feeding format, the characteristic grip, spin and rip, the crocodiles can only enter the carcass where it is soft. The exceptional heat quickly loosens the flesh however and with some spectacular land-bound spins, the meat comes free - enough to lighten the load sufficiently after a day or two that they can drag the bulk into the water and there feast more comfortably in their own medium. Until then they pile upon one another, crudely slithering over each other like maggots.

Luangwa: Battlefield of Hippo (Part 3)

The buck doesn’t stop at space and territory issues, there’s more than just lack of water for the hippos to be concerned about during the dry season in Luangwa. Their food supply literally withers away too. Most of the dry, caked earth in the dry months in Luangwa has little to no ground cover. Black cotton soils expand and contract in the heat pruning roots and rendering little edible life. So how do 30000 hippos survive? A magic, albeit little recognised, life source afforded by nature– the sausage tree! It is true in many wildlife areas that most creatures stay away from the enormous sausage-like fruit that lie under the tree (thanks to gravity) until they shrivel. But in Luangwa, the sausage tree means life to many but especially the hippos!

Huge, majestic, sausage-laden Kigelia Africana dominate the valley along the river course and adjacent floodplains. With little other cover on the earth, the sausage trees covered in electric green pre-summer flushes and rosy flowers stand out like towering mountains. Although the puku and impala feast on the fallen flowers and yellow baboon snap off the tender shoots, it’s the full grown, massive sausage fruit that the hippo seek. Where one would find the occasional fallen fruit beneath an Okavango based sausage tree, it is a rare occasion to find any such fruit lying about in Luangwa and this is because the hippos devour them with a determined voraciousness. One even spots hippos merely standing beneath the trees waiting for a fortuitous sausage to fall – even during the middle of the day!

Luangwa: Battleground of Hippos (part 2)

With a scarcity of food, an injured hippo is confined to barracks – left to die in the only available moisture he can find, usually the sludge of an abandoned oxbow. Sometimes death only comes days later as predators of all descriptions line up to watch the slow demise, saving their energy for the feast they know is imminent. On one occasion we watched a dying hippo in such a pool for just short of a week. Assuming the lions would move in and “finish him off”, we were surprised to find them lazily watching the scene from the shade of a small tree the following morning and even more surprised to find the geriatric had acquired a companion. This apparently healthy hippo moved into the puddle with the injured bull and during the course of the week and even after the other had died and turned the pond a mucky green, this loner appeared and disappeared.

A number of explanations are possible. Perhaps the second hippo was also a defeated bull with no where else to go and the injured bull was unable to fend him off his turf, or simply too weak to care. A controversial theory proposed in the past is that perhaps hippo, like elephants, endure some kind of kinship bond. The hippo may have been from its own pod, perhaps in a nearby stretch of river or simply recognised a species member in distress. Hippos have been known to behave quite remarkably around dead or dying creatures. Skinner reports a hippo supposedly rescuing an impala…???

The day that heralded the death of the hippo held another surprise. The first at the scene was a lonesome hyena who merely nibbled at the tough skin over the decimated rump. A couple of mouthfuls and he was gone. The next visitors (aside from warthogs, guinea fowl, puku and baboons all who drank from the fowl pond with its dead inhabitant) arrived only during the course of the following night and after a small feed by lion-standards, the male and female duo also departed leaving most of the carcass intact. They seemed to sense the virtue of allowing time to rot and forge away through the thick hide but even once this happened, the putrid carcass was relinquished to the hordes of vultures that patrol Luangwa’s skies. The dry season is vulture-prime time and the feasts are a comic to watch with birds dominating the carcass despite the ton or two of meat, tackling…falling into the mud…!!!

Luangwa - Battlefield of Hippo (Part 1)

The Luangwa Valley stretches like a giant arm along the Eastern part of Zambia. This vast and unforgiving wilderness, partially protected within the confines of the North and South Luangwa National Parks, does not enjoy a brutality-free history but having survived most of the ravages of man’s exploits (all except the rhino!) remains today as one of Africa’s last. A side branch to the renowned Great Rift Valley, the flat-bottomed Luangwa Valley harvests the fertility washed down from her mother feature and with the provision of copious annual summer floods, consequently supports an inordinate abundance and diversity of life. Water gushes down a 200m wide snaking channel, over spilling its meandering banks to replenish numerous oxbow lagoons and watering the adjacent pastures. With so much surface water and the fertility of the Rift’s clay soils, the valley erupts in a summer harvest of incredibly high plant biomass which in turn supports a high biomass of herbivores including 3 endemic species - Crawshay’s zebra, Thornicroft’s giraffe and Cookson’s wildebeest. The valley consequently is alive with predators – lions, leopards, crocodiles.

Uncommon of most African rivers, the Luangwa River respects her political boundaries, rising in the highlands of Zambia’s northern frontier and terminating at the junction with the Zambezi on Zambia’s southern boundary. This spectacular river is home to the largest population of hippos in the world, and the entire ecosystem is dependant on her, the only river in the valley. And this is a vital characteristic of the Luangwa for although it is a fat and snaking river during the summer rains, Luangwa is a place of extreme seasonal contrasts and when the rain ceases, the river shrinks progressively into the dry months, eventually becoming a mere trickle interlinking deeper channels as temperatures soar into October. With the oxbows dried up and all other ephemeral water in the valley gone, creatures journey huge distances to the river for relief from a dementia-inducing time of dust and hardship – now certainly dependent of the only river in the valley. Interestingly, most creatures here exist in a smaller physical form than in the rest of Africa due to the isolated nature of the Valley, hemmed in by escapements formed by ancient tectonic movements and comparatively less fertile tracts of Miombo Woodland that extend beyond the Valley’s limits creating a relative biodiversity vacuum.

For the mega-population of hippos, ancient pig-relatives Hippopotamus amphibious, the Luangwa is patch of real estate extraordinaire! Luangwa houses an estimated 30000 hippos along its 1100km course - the biggest population anywhere in the world and so in the dry months, a shrinking river is not good news! The wide sandy beaches exposed by the retreating water, become a battleground for the hippo. For the top predators – lions and crocodiles - it’s a feast guaranteed!

So spectacular is the size of the Luangwa hippo population that any visitor to the valley can expect to count at least 80-100 individuals at any random point that one should choose to stop and tally. This in itself is remarkable but more so if one considers that the population was almost annihilated before the area was protected. In 1918 a hippo sighting was considered a significant one! But that really is a thing of the past and the numbers are staggeringly obvious when the river is at its lowest in late October into November.

Hippos seem to favour the quiet oxbow refuges and lagoon-flanked stretches of river as it is here that they can easily access the lush grass from the alluvial areas surrounding the floodplains. But after May, these choice habitats are no longer available, shrivelled to chunks of caked-mud in the heat, and with no where else to go, hippos migrate en masse to the deeper pools in the wide river channel. Survival through these times is a severe ordeal. Here they are vulnerable to the scorching sun and to the wrath of the resident bulls, irritated that their turf is being invaded by the competition. The deeper pools amongst exposed sandbanks are prized territories and conflict is the order of the day!

Enormous in size and decked with formidable canine-like tusks and muscular jaws, the hippopotamus is at the best of times a formidable beast, able to snap a 3m crocodile in half given good provocation! Survival instinct sets in among the swollen pods and it’s each to their own - sometimes with brutal consequences like the death of an infant trampled in the crowd! As the water level drops lower and lower, fights erupt in a flurry of water and honking and then fizzle out almost as quickly once dominance is established or space acquired.

But for the bulls, a deep pool in the river is gold to retain females and they have more important work than mediating commotion. For a bull, the fight is for territory and for the females and mating rights that come with that. During the height of the drought, fights spark swiftly between a proprietor of a sought after stretch of river, and any unwary immigrant male, displaced from the dried up lagoons. So fierce are the bull defenders that it’s all or nothing. Most fights are likely to end in the death of one of the combatants or at least the expulsion of the loser. The bizarre and somewhat unnerving honk-roars of hippos in combat ring out through the dry air throughout August, September and October, night and day. Most of the noisy charade seems to be an intimidation tactic – when matters get serious, the noise disappears, the only sounds being the clash and slash of mighty canines locked in confrontation accompanied by spectacular sprays of water and blood streaming from the afflicted combatants’ mouths. Powerful robust jaws supported by abnormally large head and forequarters and sword-like teeth are the fighting weapons of these massive opponents –the rest just tons of stubborn blubber. Characterised by violent head shakes and swift rushes, these scenes are spectacular, the noisy chorus’ indeed intimidating and the results all too often devastating!